Fashion design Parts of clothing Sewing. It looks like the pleats are sewn down about 1. Shirts and blouses typically have pleats on the back to provide freedom of movement and on the arm where the sleeve tapers to meet the cuff. O'Connell's pleated front cotton Moleskin Trouser - Olive. This was a staple for quite a while at their stores and they had a slimmer leg with less tapering than you often saw at the time.
The added fullness is neatly kept to the inside of the leg. When there is a second pleat, the extra cloth is taken from the outer edge on the hips.
Sean Connery wears double-forward-pleated trousers with all of his suits throughout his five Bond films in the s, during a time when pleats were becoming increasingly less popular.
Reverse pleats are the standard pleats today, or at least they were a few years ago before pleats completely went out of fashion. Reverse pleats first appear on Bond in The Living Daylights. The extra cloth for reverse pleats is all taken from the outside of the hips and legs. This gives the trousers a baggier look, which goes well with full-cut jackets because the trousers fill out the bottom of the jacket for an unbroken silhouette.
Whilst the second pleat on double-pleated trousers helps to keep the main pleat closed, a third pleat on the side only adds extra fullness. When full-cut trousers were popular during that time, not only were triple-pleated trousers popular but other pleat styles were too.
Some trousers had box pleats and inverted box pleats, usually with an additional reverse pleat towards the side. Thankfully Bond avoided these styles. The purpose of pleats is a practical one, both to allow the trousers to expand when seated and to better fit the curves of the hips.
Forward pleats usually look trimmer than reverse pleats, though reverse pleats are easier to fit with ready-to-wear trousers. This is because when forward pleats pull open, the crease no longer hangs straight down.
When reverse pleats pull open, the front crease is still straight down. But in my experience, well-fitting trousers with forward pleats are the most flattering. Forward pleats are more slimming because they draw the eye inward instead of outward.
The common aversion to pleats today is that people associate them with baggy trousers. But when well-fitted, trousers can be trim whilst at the same time having the practical advantage of pleats. Very interesting and informative, Matt.
I was advised by my tailor to always have pleats for the reasons that you have mentioned and have a single forward pleat. I was under the impression that double pleats would make the trousers look somewhat baggy but, as you point out, I think that depends on the quality of the tailoring.
I never used to like the higher waist but can now see that the trousers often hang better and, of course, they avoid that atrocious and unsightly gap betwen the fastening jacket button and the trousers themselves. I find forward pleats to be infinitely more pleasing that the reverse from an aesthetic standpoint. As for my own tastes, I prefer flat-front trousers with a medium rise.
I find that this flatters my figure due to my compact torso. Matt, do pleats ever work with a medium rise, or should pleated pants always rest at the natural waste? Medium rise to me is an inch below the natural waste. Bond has never worn single pleats. They are always double except for the examples of triple pleats I mentioned.
What do you think? The size of the pleats should be proportionate to the size of your hips. Well-tailored forward pleats should not make trousers baggy. If forward pleats are making your trousers baggy they are not cut well.
With reverse pleats, however, a slight bagginess can be hard to avoid. I always have pleats,two or single. Depends from the ability of the tailor. I not like flat front,unless that in sport pants in jeans cut. In this case Ambrosi trousers the reverse pleats are not baggy and the man is burly and have a hand in the pocket:. For anyone my age 44 a discussion about pleats can bring up interesting memories and conflicted feelings. I associated pleats with baggy trousers, although that was likely due to poorly cut, off-the-rack trousers from department stores in the mid- to lates.
This was a staple for quite a while at their stores and they had a slimmer leg with less tapering than you often saw at the time. But the big difference was that they had a single forward pleat as opposed to double reverse pleats. The difference in fit was astounding. That was likely the first time that I understood fit and style as it related to me, and I can tell you that I felt like Bond!
This was , and I often wore a black long-sleeved polo shirt with my tan utility pants so I felt like Timothy Dalton in The Living Daylights. Black Lapel seems receptive to making forward pleats, so I may order a suit with them. It destroys the misconception that pleats must always make trousers look ill fitting and baggy.
I think it also helps that they are stitched down for an inch below the waistband, which further helps in keeping them straight. Many mistakenly believe that the CR dinner suit had flat front, low rise trousers just because he went without a waist covering. I also have to say that, for reverse pleats, Brioni does them as well as anyone can.
I still wish they were forward pleats instead, but oh well. Milan will forever fight Savile Row on that unfortunately. Sewing down the pleats at the top of the waistband helps direct the fullness to where it needs to be. It looks like the pleats are sewn down about 1.
On my best pairs there are two darts above each rear pocket, and that makes a difference. I find your second paragraph interesting. Given your knowledge of tailoring I would think that you would be able to find a cut of flat-front pants that looked good on you.
Something that I went through when I was younger, and I know a few people who go through this even at my age, was writing off a specific style or cut of clothing based on limited experience. Even today I love that almost miraculous feeling when you find a cut of a specific style that looks good on you.
Regarding pleats, I wonder how long it will be until they become mainstream again? Well, I said I found that flat front trousers fit me when they have two darts on each side in the back.
Most do not fit me. Anyone can benefit from that. So if I did understand your other article well, darts help to create more shape around the hips -rather than hanging straight?
So I presume it would be the same for trousers darts, yet you say that plain front trousers without darts were too tight for you and that you needed trousers with a darted front… to be less tighten I presume. Unless trousers darts and shirt darts are totally different, I am a little confused Matt! If you have large back and large bottom you should definitely choose pleated pants.
They will give you more freedom of movement and you will feel more comfortable. Wear them on your waist since if you wear them on your hips, your thighs will look huge. Another detail that should be added to pleated pants is cuffs.
If you opt for pleated pants you should add cuffs, because this will complete the classic look of your pants, and it will add weight to your pants making fabric drape naturally. Slimmer men can wear pleated pants only in a suit combination, never alone by themselves since if worn alone they will make extra room around middle section and this will look sloppy. These pants are great for slimmer man.
They will make your silhouette more smooth and straight. They should be worn on hips, but they have to fit you perfectly.
Also you should leave your pants cuff free, since they do not need extra weight at the bottom. Slimmer men can wear cuffs on their pants only if the pants are from heavier fabric. Tweed or such, which is worn in winter cold days.
In this way the pants will drape better. If you are a larger modern man you should avoid flat front since it will be too tight for you and they will feel uncomfortable. Flat front pants will also emphasize your belly.
If you are somewhere in the middle, neither big, neither slim, you should try both options and see how they feel. Sit down in them, walk around, stand up and be sure they are comfortable in every situation. I find pleated pants are much more comfortable than flat-fronted pants and chose pleated whenever I can sadly stores seem to push flat-fronts.
That is why traditional pants were pleated and modern pants are flat-fronted, it is part of the feminization of men. Flat-fronted pants are for women. When I first started it was flat front.
I came in with a flat and asked the salesman if he had anymore and he chuckled that if he had a flat, he would sell it to me at a steep discount to get it off the rack. I kept wearing my pleats. Some guys pants were so tight with the flat style it was uncomfortable to sit for long periods they told me.
I have stayed with my pleated suits. I do have some flat dress pants that do have some room in them. Pleats will be back soon. I just like a man in pleated pants…my husband looks slimmer in that style. Even though he is not tall, and he has some extra pounds on him, they suit him well. I visited another site recently and scooped up a bunch in a size 42 waist.
There are some exceptions, but the guy who tries to claim he needs the extra room of pleats for his jewels and that flats are another sign of feminization… Just has issues…lol? However, due to the recession, my industry failed and I retreated to a side-skill, which is cabinet-making, picture framing and carpentry, which was a jeans and t-shirt job every day.
Equally, it was tiring work for a healthy but 51 year old man. Now, with the economy much better, I am trying to re-enter the corporate world. But the question remains: Now, progressing through the 2nd Decade of the 21st Century, I am in the process of reevaluating my wardrobe.
Starting from scratch and buying less expensive suits or altering the dynamite collection that I already own? I am sure that there are thousands of middle aged men like me with a closet full of expensive suits. I spent a life time and a fortune building a wardrobe for an extremely high level of corporate success. It benefited me greatly from to The then entire business strata collapsed. I know I must be blathering, but I know many men in my situation.
So again the question:
Flat front trousers were very popular in the middle of the 20th century, but in the 80’s with its baggy style, pleated pants had a revival. Later it all changed for the more lean, slim looking silhouette and flat front pants came back. Online shopping for Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry from a great selection of Casual, Wear to Work, Night Out, Pants & more at everyday low prices. Pleated pants have folds or pleats along the waist, towards the front and the different types can define a trouser formal or informal. The leg of the trousers is usually well tapered towards the ankles and they can be with cropped ankles or traditional hem lengths.